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When curating a roll of London’s top restaurants, one might expect well-known Michelin-starred names. But, tucked high among these food giants is a modest salonu situated in a outlying corner of north London.

A Surprise Honour

The little Turkish eatery, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the fourth finest restaurant in the city by a prominent food magazine. This honour has left the proprietors utterly shocked.

“I am completely astonished,” states the proprietor, alluding to his family’s dedication that led to their humble shop securing such a high spot on a respected 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

This small shop, which started as a simple cafe before its transformation into a buzzing food hotspot, has kept much of its earlier feel. It seats just over 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking show, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate place,” says the owner.

The Signature Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all about the food, and this restaurant more than excels. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a tender quality.

The meat is then added into a large pan with spices and oil, which are added in gradually. When the meaty mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to absorb all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is rolled tightly inside.

The wrap is typically consumed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a mighty punch of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The respected food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is doused in lighter syrup than usual, resulting in it a richer, more aromatic and not overly sweet flavour.

Surpassing the Stars

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the summit of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place full for less than £25, similar experiences at luxury establishments can run into significantly more than that figure.

A Ethos of Warmth

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I don’t believe in that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is most important is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is echoed by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he were in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London train at this spot as a finishing school, to show them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to show what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Journey of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not work at fancy establishments. “I feel really proud of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants take years to become successful, but this one first started seven years ago. Its success is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum would be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a life outside work but her friends would support her to support her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

A Achievement for the Culture

This restaurant’s accolade is bound to resonate outside its own doors. “I think a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the greater importance of this culinary triumph.